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27/02/2006 00:11:25
Ahem, the hunt for more power is on pause... jacked up the NSR wheel to turn the engine looking for TDC, and suddenly I understand why the car has been feeling a bit nervous of late - I've never seen a bearing so utterly collapsed :eek:
Has anyone any advice on how to decide whether it's better to replace the whole hub? Not attempted to get the remnants out yet, but I'm expecting to see a pretty sorry sight.
Shame there aren't more anti-clockwise circuits, would even up the wear & tear a bit...:confused:
On the subject of bearings, can anyone identify the uprated bearings the Cup cars use?
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27/02/2006 08:38:44
[quote=Mike H]....
On the subject of bearings, can anyone identify the uprated bearings the Cup cars use?[/quote]Mike, sorry to hear your double troubles. The wheel bearing on the cup car is so expensive that the advice I've been given is to stick to the standard part. The wear rate (unless you are using slicks) should mean that you can replace the standard part several times for the cost of the cup car part. If you want more detail, then talk to Roy Ford at Tech-speed motorsport.
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01/03/2006 11:57:55
I was speaking to a MGF racer at Gaydon in the Summer, what he does to avoid the collapsing bearing is to tighten the hub nut every so often, he said what caused the accelerated wear was slack in the bearing and recommended removing the split pin from the BIG nut and re-tighening with a LONG lever. This can increase life.
Tm
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03/03/2006 19:26:47
[quote=Tim]I was speaking to a MGF racer at Gaydon in the Summer, what he does to avoid the collapsing bearing is to tighten the hub nut every so often, he said what caused the accelerated wear was slack in the bearing and recommended removing the split pin from the BIG nut and re-tighening with a LONG lever. This can increase life.
Tm[/quote]
Thanks Tim, I think you're/he's right, I was expecting the nut to be a b*gger to undo but it was barely more than finger tight. The one I'm struggling with perversely enough is the retaining bolt on the ABS sensor - seized solid & rounding off nicely :(
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03/04/2006 13:35:50
[QUOTE=Mike H] So the project to re-invent it is now priority 1, and the target is 160+ bhp. The bottom end while sound enough is well past 100k miles so not really an attractive proposition to start bolting extras onto, so a low mileage VVC engine now heads up the shopping list.[/quote]
Mike, I guess the question is whether you want to rebuild your existing engine - because there is nowt as cheap as free - and you've got your existing engine already sitting there.
100+ miles is not too hedonistic for a K. It should be good for another 100k - but that said, I don't think that it is too much trouble replacing and upgrading the bottom end bearings to VVC spec. Otherwise the bottom end of both engines are identical.
[QUOTE=Mike H] Ideally I'm looking for all the bits to complete the transplant in one go, otherwise I can foresee it dragging on too far into the track-day season. The budget isn't going to stretch to Emerald chips or throttle bodies, but having seen what others get from a well ported VVC head I feel this is my best route. Unless anyone has a convincing argument to the contrary..? :confused:[/QUOTE]
I guess this answers my previous question! But what I'd say is look out for MPi engines for the reasons mentioned above - VVC bottom ends will have a premium that is unwarranted - especially as later engines were standardised on VVC parts ;)
A VVC cylinder head is a good idea - but sometimes you can get cheap VHPD castings that simplify the cam options if solid cams are the way you want to go... certainly this is arguably the cheaper route to take, although Dave's and Stu's cars show that you can get excellent 180bhp results from a bit of porting while retaining the VVC mechanism. And all on a standard inlet plenum too.
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